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The Manor of Owermoigne

When the Saxon Harold Goodwinson (King Harold II) was defeated at Senlec Ridge near Hastings in 1066, it was the beginning of William of Normandy’s conquest. Battles raged around the country before the population was fully brought under Norman rule. One such battle took place in 1067 on an area we now call the Moigne Downs, near Dorchester.

Domesday Book records land here about, including the manor of Owers, was owned by Matthew Moretania and like most of the Saxon landowners he was soon to be dispossessed of his lands including the Manor of Owers, which was granted to the Norman general le Moigne who with his troops had attacked and defeated the town of Dorchester.

The Moigne family built and settled in the Manor House of Moignes Court during the reign of King Henry III, when they were the owners of the Manor until the reign of Henry V; it is believed that originally tea nor House was thatched like Woodsford Castle. The manor passed down through Ralph, William, Henry, Joyhn, Henry and Sir John Moigne, the latter having no male issue resulting in parts of the estate being sold off; the rest passed to the Stourton family through one of the heiresses of t he Moignes.

Records from the time of the reign of Edward I (1272-1307) state that “Ralph Moyne has the Manor of Owers of the Lord the King, by sergeantry of the Royal Kitchen. His ancestors held these tenements from the time of King Henry the First by the aforesaid service.”

At an investigation held before Justices at Sherborne in 1278 William Moignes stated that the family had held the lands from the time of Henry I, in recognition of the service to the Monarch. William Moignes also claimed the right to impound anything washed up by the sea; to inflict fines for breaches of the statutory price of bread and beer, and to hold pleas of wrongful distress and to keep gallows at Winfrith and Owermoigne. This record adds that all the ancestry from time immemorial had enjoyed these privileges. The gallows stood on the way to the sea on a hill still known today as Gallows Hill; William Moigne was master of life and death in the Hundred of Winfrith.

Henry le Moigne, along with many other Knights from Dorset, was called to arms on several occasions to fight the Scots; these Knights were paid for their service by gifts of land and this added greatly to the wealth of the Moigne family.

The last of the Moignes was Sir John, who was Sheriff of Dorset in 1389. He married Joan, a daughter and heir of the Mandeviles of Marsh wood – they had two daughters but no sons.  The younger daughter, Hester, married Sir William Bonvil of Somerset. In 1408 part of the Manor was purchased by John Herring Esq., Thomas Hody and Henry Gouys, but a large part passed to the Stourton family on the marriage of Sir John’s eldest daughter, Elizabeth, to Sir William Stourton.

During the reign of Henry VIII the Manor of Owers was owned by William Baron Stourton. His son Sir Charles, Lord Stourton, brought disgrace on the family while Sir Charles was involved in a lawsuit with a Mr Hartgill and his son who he lured to Stourton Castle ostensibly for a meal and to express his regrets and forgiveness. This was on the 12th of January 1557; father and son were never seen again.

Their bodies were later found buried under the floor of a cellar in the castle. During the trial of Sir Charles it was revealed that while at the table the guests were clubbed by servants and their throats cut.

Sir Charles was sentenced to hang. He appealed to Queen Mary I to make a change to the sentence, on the grounds of his quality and that he and all his family were Roman Catholics.  In view of his noble birth the Queen ordered that he be hanged by a silken halter. He and four of his servants were hanged and he was buried in St Mary’s Chapel in Salisbury Cathedral.

The Stourton family owned the Manor of Owermoigne until 1703 when it was purchased by William Wake, who was later to become Archbishop of Canterbury. He sold the Manor in 1732 to Sir Theodore Janssen a wealthy man of Dutch descent who came to England in 1680.  He was knighted by King William III and at the special request of George II, at the time Prince of Wales, he was made a Baronet in 1714. His son Sir Stephen was Lord Mayor of London in 1755.

William Janssen’s heiress married the Hon. Lionel Damer, third son of the Earl of Dorchester, but she died childless and in the 19th century the manor was sold to John Cree Esq. Subsequently the Cree family restored Moignes Court, a substantial part of which had been damaged by fire in the late 19th century; they re-built the church and provided a school.

 

Warmwell

This small village five miles south east of Dorchester has a Manor House, Mill and Mill House, a few thatched cottages and a Church to remind us of its place in history. Furthermore, for a period during World War II airmen of the Royal Air Force flew missions from a hastily built aerodrome here on an area that is now a quarry.

After the conquest the manor was granted to a Norman, Geoffrey de Warmwell; it later passed to the Newburghs and in the early 17th century came into the possession of the Trenchhard family. Sir Thomas Trenchard was the first in the family to hold it. Sir George Trenchard settled the manor on his son John and it passed to John Sadler through marriage to Jane, Sir John Trenchard’s daughter. The Richards family took possession of the Manor and Warmwell House in 1687, then held it for three generations until in 1806 William Richards sold the Warmwell property and the new owner’s daughter married Capt. Augustus Foster. The estate remained in the hands of the Foster family until 1935.

A Commercial Day Book and a Diary belonging to John Richards have survived from the 18th century and shine a light on business and social life at the time; we will be taking a closer look at these in another article.

John Sadler was a prominent London lawyer who held several offices during the Commonwealth period and for a time was Oliver Cromwell’s personal secretary. He was elected Town Clerk of London on 3rd of July 1649, an office he held until the 18th of September 1660, when he was declared incapable of office. He was nominated as MP for Cambridgeshire in 1653 and in 1659 he was MP for Yarmouth in the Isle of Wight. He was fluent in several Oriental languages.

On the Restoration he lost most of his properties and retired to Warmwell in 1662 in poor mental and physical health. On his deathbed, where he was attended by his wife, a local church minister and his servant, he foretold three major future events: the Plague, The Great Fire of London and the Monmouth Rebellion.

The Parish of Warmwell consists of almost 1,700 acres in a rectangular plan, with the village near the well-wooded middle area. Nearby is the source of a small brook which flows northwards to join a tributary of the River Frome.

The Parish Church of The Holy Trinity stands at the south end of the village. The Nave was built in the 13th century and the West Tower was built (or possibly rebuilt) in the 17th century. The church was restored in 1851 and in 1881 a new chancel was built.  Inside the church are monuments to members of the Richards family: William Richards 1833; William Richards 1803 and Margaret (Clavell) his wife 1817; Susanna and Edward, children of William and Margaret Richards 1803. In the churchyard a table-tomb to Henry Vie 1691 and there is an area looked after by the War Graves Commission, where there are memorials to those lost during World War II, mostly airmen but there are some to prisoners of war.

The present Warmwell House was built in the early 17th century, probably by Sir John Trenchard, who inherited the manor in 1618. The south-east side of the house is thought to include the remains of an earlier building.

Warmwell Mill dates from the late 18th century or early 19th century. In the mid-19th century the miller’s house was added. There are other listed buildings in the village: The Stables and the Lodge House which belong to the estate and Rose Cottages, a pair of estate cottages standing by the side of the road through the small village, which gets its name from a well of tepid water that is the source of the brook..

 

Owermoigne

The  parish of Owermoigne amounts to a little over four thousand acres in a strip of land stretching from the sea at Ringstead Bay, where the cliffs tower up to 200ft. To the north of the coast the land rises to over 400ft above sea level and then drops into the valley of the Upton Brook, before rising again on Moigne Down and then slopes down to areas of heathland. Originally the area comprised a number of small settlements but the greater part of the parish north of Moigne Down was divided between Owermoigne and Galton, both at the edge of the heathland and today north of the main Dorchester to Wareham road.

Early in the 20th century Sir Frederick Treves in his book Highways and Byways in Dorset described Owermoigne as a “shy, old fashioned hamlet” and goes on to say it is “one of those hamlets that has no apparent object in life.” The hamlet that Treves saw is still here, hidden behind a camouflage of modern local authority housing. In earlier times the village was on the smugglers route and many a keg of the finest brandy would have been hidden away here.  In the 18th century William Wake sold the manor of Owermoigne to Sir Theodore Janssen. His son Sir Stephen Janssen was a Member of Parliament and Lord Mayor of London in 1755. Possibly drawing on his local knowledge of the Dorset coast Sir Stephen published a pamphlet entitled Smuggling Laid Open.

The Rectory is mostly from the 16th century and it is thought the beams in the drawing room came from a Spanish galleon which was lured to the coast and wrecked. In the front wall of the older wing is a trap door through which brandy casks were pushed (reputedly the Rector was one of the smuggler’s best customers!). When the Enclosure Act became law in 1829 the Rector was granted the right to cut fifteen hundred furze faggots a year and as many turfs as a man could cut in a day with three spades! He was allowed to keep two cows in a field known as  Cowleaze and two horses in a field called Skidmore. The Rectory passed into private ownership during the early part of the 20th century.

A short distance from the Church heading towards Crossways is Castle Lane, which leads to the ancient Manor House of Moignes Court, built in the 13th century and which had its own chapel before the present church was built.

Standing in the middle of the village is the church dedicated to St. Michael. Built from local rubble its 15th century west tower houses three bells that date from the reign of Queen Elizabeth I; the rest  was rebuilt in 1883 to the designs of S. Jackson of Weymouth.

The Parish Registers record events from 1569, but the most interesting entries are to be found between 1624 and 1800 when events in the lives of many of Thomas Hardy’s ancestors are recorded.

William Knapp 1698-1768

William Knapp was born in 1698 at Wareham and died at Poole, where he was buried on September 26th 1768. He was a shoemaker and for 39 years he was the Parish Clerk for Poole, where he is known to have played an instrument and been a member of the Church Choir. In 1753 he published a book of hymn and psalm tunes titled Church Melody, that included the tune “Wareham“, which has been included in many hymn books over the years and is his most recognisable work.

Church Melody was reprinted several times and included a reprinting of An Imploration to the King of Kings, written by Charles I while a prisoner in Carisbrooke Castle in 1648. The book is beautifully engraved.   He also published another book containing a set of new psalms and anthems for church occasions, including one that commemorates the fire that engulfed Blandford in 1731. This book is dedicated to John Saintloe Esq., of Little Fontmill who is addressed as one who appreciated and practised divine music.  In this second book Knapp includes the tune ‘Langton’, which he claims as his own work but which was written some 180 years earlier by Tallis, who contributed it to Archbishop Parker’s Psalmster.

In the index we find that our Dorset-bred composer dedicated almost all his hymn and psalm tunes to the towns and villages of his native county.

 

Weymouth – Sandsfoot Castle

This Tudor fort was completed around 1541 and is part of Henry VIII’s network of coastal defences to protect against attacks from Roman Catholic enemies, both French and Spanish, following the change in the established religion in England. Sandsfoot Castle stands opposite Portland Castle and between them their artillery protected shipping in Portland Harbour from foreign attack.

A century later the country was moving toward civil war and from 1642 the castle was held for King Charles I until 1644-45 when Colonel Ashburnham, governor for the king, surrendered it to Parliamentary forces.

From 1642 the Parliamentary authorities had full control of the Royal Mint within the Tower of London, which was able to supply all the currency demands of its new masters. Interestingly, the king’s opponents continued to use King Charles’ portrait and titles on their coins until 1649, when he was executed.

Charles I issued currency of equal intrinsic value mainly from his headquarters in Oxford, the mint there being in New Inn Hall, but also from various places throughout the country including Sandsfoot Castle, where the dungeons were used as a mint. Its use as a place for striking coinage gave the castle more importance than it had as a strategic military asset. After the Royalist surrender of the castle it was held for the government by Humphrey Weld but as its condition deteriorated it appears to have been abandoned until a use for it was found as a storehouse and this continued until 1691. The castle was in a ruinous state by the end of the 18th century and in 1837 parts of it fell into the sea.

The castle had suffered damage from coastal erosion quite soon after its completion, repairs being undertaken in 1584; further repairs were necessary in 1610 and 1623. A Grade II listed building since the mid 20th century, it has in more recent times benefited from Heritage and Lottery grants that have facilitated restoration works, making it safe for free access to the public.

 

Archbishop William Wake

Cardinal John Morton was not the only clerical figure with Dorset connections to have become Archbishop of Canterbury; the position of Protestant Primate of England was also attained by another man of the county. But William Wake, born 348 years ago this January (2005) probably had the more distinguished pedigree of the two men.

Wake was born on January 26th 1657 in the village of Shapwick near Badbury Rings, the only child of a family of five children to survive to adulthood. His father was Colonel William Wake senior, a distant descendant of the Saxon warlord Hereward the Wake, who led an insurrection against William 1 in 1070 (not, as is widely believed, that he came over with the Norman conqueror).

William senior (the Colonel) had joined a Cavalier regiment when still young and had suffered much for the Royalist cause during the Civil War. This included being imprisoned more than twenty times and even being condemned at Exeter to be hung, drawn and quartered for complicity in the western insurrection, but was later pardoned. Colonel Wake married Amy Cutler, daughter of Edward Cutler, a prosperous Stourpaine farmer. Said to have been strong and hard-working, Amy brought he husband considerable wealth, but was nevertheless to die of tuberculosis when young William was only 16.

When he was six William attended his first school in Blandford. At 16, by then a gifted scholar, his father sent him to Oxford where he matriculated as a Commoner in 1673. Two years later he became a student, going on to gain a BA in 1676 and then an MA in 1679. Colonel Wake, keen to see his son follow a clerical career, advised him to take holy orders when he reached Canonical age, and consequently in September1681 William was made a Deacon. The following year he was ordained as a Priest, then becoming Chaplain to Louis X1V court in 1682. Wake remained at the French court until 1685.

In 1688 Wake married Ethelreda, daughter of Sir William Howell of Norfolk, and by her raised a family of 13 children. Their father became Canon of Christchurch, Oxford, also being presented to the Rectory of St James, Westminster. As a reward for his support of the Accession of William and Mary, the King and Queen appointed Wake Canon of Exeter Cathedral in 1701. Following a brief period at the Bishopric of Lincoln (where he was made Clerk of the Closet) William was installed as Archbishop of Canterbury in 1715.

But by this time the Archbishop had been pursuing a parallel career as a Parliamentarian for 10 years. Wake had taken his seat in the House of Lords in 1705, but found its demanding workload too much for his somewhat frail constitution to endure. The additional demands upon him left William with almost no time to indulge his other intellectual interests of researching, translating and collecting.

In his latter years he was able to take up work again, but a decline in his mental faculties and other health problems hampered his efforts. His many friends rallied to help him produce several valuable manuscripts which he bequeathed to Christchurch College, together with his expansive collection of books, coins and medals. As a writer he gained a reputation for outspoken-ness and many of his theological works became controversial. At one time a concern over what he regarded as bad language and moral laxity caused him to attempt to force a blasphemy bill through Parliament to punish offenders.

Like so many other Dorset men Wake had the greatest affection for his native county. On one occasion members of the Society of Dorset Men even invited him to preach at Mary Le Bow Church, a proposition which brought him much delight and satisfaction. Whenever he was staying at the family home in Shapwick Wake would preach at St Andrews in Winterborne Tomson. This 12th century church was the Archbishop’s favourite and would be visited repeatedly whenever Wake was on his native patch of soil. He generously covered the cost for providing St Andrews with ten more box pews. He said he found the calm atmosphere refreshing after the great cathedrals.

The Archbishop was also a great champion of free education, considering that every child, regardless of status, should have an equal opportunity to learn. In his day this generated opposition, but in his will, Wake made provision for £1,000 to be paid to the Corporation of Blandford for the schooling of 12 pauper boys. This paid for a schoolmaster, who would supply books,writing materials and accommodation for the boys. The trustees were required to supply the boys with a blue gown, breeches, yellow stockings, shoes, cap, belt and bib at Whitsun.

Thus Blandford’s Blue Coat School was born. The boy’s education was conducted under strict rules to prepare them for work in the trades and industries of the town – and to follow Protestantism. Under the Education Act of 1944 and 1946 the charity was wound up, and in 1974 a new Primary school in Blandford was dedicated as “The Archbishop Wake Junior School” by the Bishop of Sherborne.

Finally, one might think that an Archbishop of Canterbury born in Dorset, would have been buried either in that Cathedral or Dorset, but this was not the posthumous fate of Archbishop William Wake. When he died, on his 80th birthday in 1736, he was laid to rest in the parish church in Croydon.

Wool: The Wool Bridge and Woolbridge Manor

Wool lies on the banks of the River Frome at the eastern end of the area Hardy called Egdon Heath, the dark background for some of his novels. The parish developed considerably during the early 20th century to serve as a gateway for the throngs of sightseers heading for the ruins of Bindon Abbey and a view of Woolbridge Manor, which was the inspiration for Hardy’s Wellbridge House where Tess and Angel Clare spent their ill-fated honeymoon. The arrival of the Nuclear Research Station at nearby Winfrith Newburgh required additional housing supply in the area but long before that Treves in his Highways and Byways described Wool as “once pretty enough.”The Dorset coast around Lulworth Cove can be accessed from Wool.

At an enquiry in 1343 it was settled that “the Woolbridge is and always has been maintained and repaired by alms and nobody is bound to maintain or repair it.” There are records of repairs being carried out on a bridge here in 1607 and 1688. The present bridge is probably from the 16th century. It was built in five arches, its massive piers with cutwaters providing recesses for foot-passengers using its narrow 12ft road should a wagon or van come along. A new bridge for motor traffic was opened in 1953 and now the old bridge is limited to carrying only pedestrians and cyclists.

There is a local legend that says a phantom coach crosses the bridge by Woolbridge Manor at night, but only those with Turberville blood can see it. The legend appears in several versions including one that links it to the elopement of John Turberville and Anne, the daughter of Thomas Howard, 1st Viscount Howard of Bindon. Hutchins says there were over the door in the hall the arms of Turberville impaling Howard of Bindon. John Turberville who died in 1623 married Lady Anne Howard.  Hardy makes mention of the legend in Tess of the D’Urbervilles.

Woolbridge Manor is just outside of Wool on the northern bank of the river. It earned praise from Pevsner who says of it: “the survival in a mellow unspoilt condition, in spite of being a hotel is a triumph.” It formerly belonged to the Turbeville family and can be approached by using the historic crossing point over the Frome, the old Wool Bridge.
 
Thomas Turberville acquired the manor of Woolbridge early in the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Before the Dissolution of the Monasteries the manor had been a possession of Bindon Abbey. What we see today is probably only a part of the original Elizabethan house. The front of the house faces north and on its porch is a stone with the letters I.T. and a date, which is unclear but could be 1635 or 1655. If it is the later date it might refer to rebuilding possibly as a consequence of damage caused during the Civil War; the house is said to have been garrisoned during the Civil Wars while it was owned by Sir John Turberville, who was Sheriff of the County in 1652.

The Manor House has three storeys of red brick and stone, the roofs have clay tiles with stone slates to the eaves. Many windows around the building have been removed at some time, possibly due to the window tax in 1696. The front is a good example of 17th century brickwork but the stone gables at either end are certainly older but the fine brick chimneys date from the 17th century.

Stories persist that a tunnel runs from the house under the river to Bindon Abbey.

 

Shillingstone – The Church of The Holy Rood

The Parish Church at Shillingstone is north of the village, where it stands on a hill overlooking the Stour valley. It is thought a wooden church stood on this site during the reign of Edward the Confessor, when the manor here was held by Harold Earl Godwin who became King Harold II, the last Saxon king of England. The manor was granted to the Norman Schelin family by William the Conqueror;  they were recorded as the Lords of the Manor in the Domesday Book and it was during the family’s tenure of the manor that a stone church was built.

The Church of The Holy Rood reveals its Norman ancestry in parts of the walls and some of the windows that have survived since the 12th century. The building then consisted of a small rectangular nave and a narrower chancel.

The walls of the building are of flint rubble, banded flint and rubble and ashlar; the roof tiles are modern. Its nave is in the Perpendicular style but the original Norman building had narrow rounded windows and some of these were brought to light during restoration works in 1858 and 1888. During these works the two galleries (one above the other), the founder’s tomb, an ambry and an ancient priest’s door were cleared away and the north aisle and north chapel were added.

The chancel arch is of the 14th century and the embattled west tower was built late in the 15th century and houses five bells – one dated 1622 and another of that date recast in 1892 as well as one of 1634 and two of 1734. The south porch was added during the 16th century. Further works in 1902/3 included the rebuilding of parts of the chancel and that included a new roof with a blue ground inset with stars, new choir stalls and an oak screen surmounted by a large wooden cross.  The 17th century pulpit was a gift to the church from a London merchant in recognition and thanks for the shelter from the Plague provided to him by the village.

In the churchyard is the base of an old cross, probably a preaching cross from the early 15th century. Another is on a small green in the village and has an ancient base but the slender weathered pillar is deceptive; that was added in 1903. There is a third cross in the village: a War Memorial.

Buckhorn Weston

In the Domesday Book Buckhorn Weston is recorded as being of “fair size” with a population of 26. Later, Hutchins refers to an isolated farmhouse in the south west of the parish that appears to stand in an area of former open fields; it existed in 1641, showing that enclosure had taken place before that date. The parish is in the north west of the county on the border with Somerset and consists of 1,705 acres.

The Parish Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist and is on the hillside near the centre of the village. Its walls are of squared rubble with ashlar dressings and the roofs are tiled. The chancel and nave were built in the 14th century, but were altered during restoration works in the 19th century, when extensive changes were made including the enlargement and rebuilding in 1870 of the north aisle following the taking down and rebuilding of the west tower in 1861. The low tower houses six bells the earliest being dated 1602. The north arcade of the nave and the south porch date from the 15th century.

In a recess in the chancel wall there is a recumbent effigy of a young man asleep in the dress style of the late 14th century: a short tunic with tippet and hood, tight hose and a belt with purse. He has long hair; his hands are together in prayer, his feet rest on a beast, his head on a tasselled pillow supported by angels.

Surrounding the ringing area are six painted panels including two angels, King David and the Nativity; Pevsner describes these as “poorly painted”. They were originally on the front of the singer’s gallery but that structure was removed during the 19th century.

The churchyard is entered through wrought iron gates which were erected in memory of Captain Hugh Stapleton RN., who was born in the manor house in 1863. Opposite the church is a public house, The Stapleton Arms.

Buckhorn Weston is a self-sufficient little village, which is probably just as well as it is difficult to find and has kept its secrets close from the time of Bokere, the Saxon who gave this place its name.

Tincleton – The Parish Church of St.John

The Victorians’ passion for restoring churches is well known. At Tincleton they went further and completely demolished the standing church to start all over again.

St. John’s was built in 1849 and designed by Benjamin Ferry an eminent Victorian architect; he was employed on projects throughout the country and he strode across Dorset’s ecclesiastical landscape, working on at least ten churches in the county.

Ferrey was also responsible for work on several of Dorset’s private houses. St. John’s Church was not his first work in the parish of Tincleton; seven years earlier he designed, in 16th century style, Clyffe House located just a few hundred yards from the parish church.

The present church has walls of squared and coursed rubble, dressings of Ham Hill ashlar and the roof is tiled. Designed in 13th century style it comprises chancel, nave, a south chapel and vestry, and a north porch. The east wall to left and right of the reredos (1889), which is of alabaster and delicately cut, has stone arcading.

Above the west gable is a bell-cote, home to two bells. The smaller of the two bells was cast at the Whitechapel foundry in 1849 but little is known about the other except to say that it may have survived the demolition of the earlier church.

The church benefits from fittings handed down from the earlier building, including the font. It is of Purbeck stone, with course reeding in two heights between rounded top and bottom mouldings, originally 12th century, but reshaped in modern times; the stem and base are modern.

There are monuments inside the church to members of the Baynard family. The earliest is to Rachel Baynard (1667) the wife of Thomas Baynard and daughter of Thomas Moore of Hattesbury. There is a well-worn stone slab in the nave, near the chancel steps, to Thomas Baynard (1683) and another to Radolphus Baynard (1695). On the north wall of the nave is a marble tablet to George Baynard (1693). The south wall of the nave has a marble tablet to Mary White (1718), daughter of George and Elizabeth Baynard and wife of George White of Stafford. In the chancel there are more recent monuments to Anne Seymour (1844), Rev. Thomas Seymour (1849) and Jane Seymour (1850).

Tincleton whose population is thinly spread across its 900 or so acres lies to the south of Puddletown and north of the River Frome, it is approached by narrow secondary roads.